Electronics Review Class: Batteries 101
Amperage limits of the commonly used batteries:
source: ecf and candlepowerforums
AW IMR 18650 (Li-Mn) - 10A
EFEST IMR 18650 2250mah (Li-Mn) - 10A
Panasonic CGR18650 2250mah (Li-Mn/Li-Ion hybrid) - 10A
Panasonic NCR18650 2900mah (Li-Ion) - 5.8A *common type of laptop battery*
EFEST 2600 mah (Li-Ion) - 4.2A
Pag
mas maiksi ang batteries (18500, 18350, 14500, etc), mas mababa ang
amperage limits nun. Which means that in theory based on chemistry, the
batteries were designed to have a certain discharge limit which could
cause it to malfunction.
Sample equations: you can check via http://ohmslawcalculator.com/ohms_law_calculator.php
Let battery charge = 4.2v (fresh off the charger)
10A minimum resistance is 0.42 ohm
5.8A minimum resistance is 0.72 ohm
4.2A minimum resistance is 1 ohm
When the mod gets shorted, the resistance becomes very close to 0, if not 0.
If we put it even at 0.01, the amperage drain becomes 420A (on 4.2v charge) which is way
off the charts for any battery to handle. And explosions or violent gas discharge percentage is greater when your
batteries do not have safe chemistry (not Li-Mn batts. source - ecf and
candlepowerforums).
What does this mean on lay man's terms? May
certain resistances lang na kaya ang mga baterya. Going beyond this
amperage limit can and will damage your batteries and could cause it to
die or worse, explode.
This friendly reminder is brought to you by your fellow vapers. Safely keep on vaping!
Tuesday, April 9, 2013
FAQ: What are the Common Vaping Terminologies?
Credits to Sky Provape Sagcal of the Pinoy Vapers Forum for the compilation of the terminologies.
- PV/Mod - "Personal Vaporizer" or "Mod" (slang) is a term that we use for our electronic cigarettes
- APV - "Advanced Personal Vaporizer" a term that we use for more advanced ecigs w/c usually encorporates different features such as variable voltage/variable wattage
- HYBRID - a term for when an APV has the atomizer as a part of the unit and there is no way to seperate the two. An example of this is the Orion.
- Full Mechanical/Full Mech - A type of PV wherein there are no wires needed to power up the device. Usually consists of positive and negative contacts, a firing trigger and a firing lock.
- Brass Mods - PVs made mostly out of brass for example, the Pipebomb V3
- Wood Mods - PVs wherein the unit is made out of wood for example, the ATB.
- Custom Mods - PVs wherein the unit is customized and built from different casings, parts and accessories for example, the Smint Mod.
- SS - Stainless STEEL not STEAL
- Bottom Fire - a PV wherein the firing mechanism is installed on the bottom of the device for example, the Torpedo.
- Side Fire/ Side Switch - a PV wherein the firing mechanism is installed on the side usually near the bottom base of the device for example, the HRT, GGTS.
- Atty - slang for Atomizer
- RA/RBA - slang for Rebuildable Atomizer
- E-juice/Juice/E-liquid - the liquid that is dripped on our atomizers
- Wick - the part of our atomizer that absorbs our e-juice
- Wire - the part of our atomizer that vaporizes our e-juice
- Telescopic - A PV's feature wherein it can be adjusted in order to fit the battery size that you will load into them.
- VV - Slang for variable voltage. An APV's feature wherein it's voltage can be adjusted to match the resistance of your build. For example, the Provari.
- VW- Slang for variable wattage. Same as vv but instead of adjusting the voltage, you adjust it by wattage. For example, the Darwin.
- VV/VW Mods - an APV wherein it can be adjusted using either it's VV or VW settings for example, the Zmax
- AFC - Slang for Air Flow Control. A feature on a rebuildable atomizer wherein the airhole/s in the topcap is regulated usually by a ring attached to it for example, the Fatty v2 RA.
- VD - Slang for Voltage Drop. The number, usually measured in volts is derived from the difference between the readings of a battery's current voltage and it's voltage when inserted and used into a PV.
FAQ: What is a Mechanical APV?
To hopefully shed light to the issue and to help our newbies in
deciding which unit to purchase, here's one issue I would like to
raise: Full Mechanical Mods VS Wired Mechanical Mods (aka. Semi
Mechanical).
A unit being full mechanical does not automatically mean that it gives off better voltage output/ lesser voltage drop. Case and point: voltage drop difference between the Silver Bullet and the GGTS. The Silver Bullet wins by kilometers. (Source: online reviews of credible reviewers, first hand experience and actual voltmeter checking)
On the plus side, Full Mechanical Mods (FMM) win hands-down in terms of durability and "flexibility". Since there are no wires on FMM, it can withstand the beating of a low ohm (less than 1 ohm builds) RBA without anything breaking down (except for the battery stress, of course). But if you are a casual vaper who uses commercial atomizers and enjoy using safe builds on your RBA (1.4+ ohms on a single battery), then you can safely use Wired Mechanical Mods (WMM).
However, there is a kind of "secret issue" when it comes to FMM that not everyone is aware of: contacts. Yes, all brand-new FMM hits hard as hell but in time, the contact points (the threads of the mod) accumulate dirt and/or oxidization (like the green material that forms on our good old Family Computer cartridges). When that happens, the performance of the mod greatly diminishes thus affecting the voltage output, which means less vapor production and heat. When that does occur, there are various ways on how to properly clean your mod and what materials to put on your mod's threads (ie. Noalox, Vaseline, Petroleum Jelly, etc). Do take note that this issue is more commonly experienced on telescopic FMM. (Source: first hand experience. I'll refrain from citing the mods I used to prevent the misconception of attacking the products.)
So the bottom line is, a FMM is not automatically better than a WMM. It greatly depends on how you are going to use it, the aesthetics, and of course; your budget.
A unit being full mechanical does not automatically mean that it gives off better voltage output/ lesser voltage drop. Case and point: voltage drop difference between the Silver Bullet and the GGTS. The Silver Bullet wins by kilometers. (Source: online reviews of credible reviewers, first hand experience and actual voltmeter checking)
On the plus side, Full Mechanical Mods (FMM) win hands-down in terms of durability and "flexibility". Since there are no wires on FMM, it can withstand the beating of a low ohm (less than 1 ohm builds) RBA without anything breaking down (except for the battery stress, of course). But if you are a casual vaper who uses commercial atomizers and enjoy using safe builds on your RBA (1.4+ ohms on a single battery), then you can safely use Wired Mechanical Mods (WMM).
However, there is a kind of "secret issue" when it comes to FMM that not everyone is aware of: contacts. Yes, all brand-new FMM hits hard as hell but in time, the contact points (the threads of the mod) accumulate dirt and/or oxidization (like the green material that forms on our good old Family Computer cartridges). When that happens, the performance of the mod greatly diminishes thus affecting the voltage output, which means less vapor production and heat. When that does occur, there are various ways on how to properly clean your mod and what materials to put on your mod's threads (ie. Noalox, Vaseline, Petroleum Jelly, etc). Do take note that this issue is more commonly experienced on telescopic FMM. (Source: first hand experience. I'll refrain from citing the mods I used to prevent the misconception of attacking the products.)
So the bottom line is, a FMM is not automatically better than a WMM. It greatly depends on how you are going to use it, the aesthetics, and of course; your budget.
FAQ: What are the common rebuildable atomizer builds?
Here are the common and dependable builds
on common wicking materials for everyone asking: (do note that these
builds were done with balance on juice retention, vapor and flavor
production in mind)
Let strands = strips of wick, and loops = 1 full turn of wire on the wick
-5 strands (4 folds) 1mm wick, 4 loops gauge 32 (0.20mm) kanthal
-3 strands (2 folds) 2mm wick, 4 loops gauge 32 kanthal
-2 strands (1 fold) 3mm wick, 4 loops gauge 32 kanthal
-2mm diameter SS mesh roll, 4 loops gauge 32 kanthal
-3mm diameter SS mesh roll, 3 loops gauge 32 kanthal
Reducing the coil spacing generates more vapor heat and throat hit (?), while more distant spacing ensures better juice burning and promotes flavor.
You do not need to wrap the wire on the wick tightly; just tight enough for it to hold on properly and make good contact with the wick.
The ideal coil spacing is about 0.5mm apart. If you can build them closer together, without making contact to other wires, it would be better.
Do note that all these builds can be used on any rebuildable atomizer and is rated roughly around 1.2-1.4 ohms. These builds can be used on any unit; be it mech, semi mech, variable voltage or even on the eGo. If you prefer more vapor, reduce wire loops or use a thicker wire material. If you want better juice retention, add more folds of wick.
Using a dual coil setup doesn't ensure more vapor production but it does ensure more stress on the battery, greater throat hit, warmer vapor, more juice consumption, and more frustrations if building it without experience. They key to a good dual coil setup is making sure that both coils glow at the same time when you dry-fire it. Not making them glow at the same time would render the build inefficient, thus wasting only ejuice on the setup instead of achieving the desired output.
With these basic setups in mind, you can tweak and experiment on them to fit your preference. Don't get disheartened when you don't get the build properly the first time. It's way better to spend on wicks and wires rather than medical bills because of lung cancer.
Everything takes practice and in time, you'll get the hang of building quickly and flawlessly.
Cheers and keep on vaping! :)
Let strands = strips of wick, and loops = 1 full turn of wire on the wick
-5 strands (4 folds) 1mm wick, 4 loops gauge 32 (0.20mm) kanthal
-3 strands (2 folds) 2mm wick, 4 loops gauge 32 kanthal
-2 strands (1 fold) 3mm wick, 4 loops gauge 32 kanthal
-2mm diameter SS mesh roll, 4 loops gauge 32 kanthal
-3mm diameter SS mesh roll, 3 loops gauge 32 kanthal
Reducing the coil spacing generates more vapor heat and throat hit (?), while more distant spacing ensures better juice burning and promotes flavor.
You do not need to wrap the wire on the wick tightly; just tight enough for it to hold on properly and make good contact with the wick.
The ideal coil spacing is about 0.5mm apart. If you can build them closer together, without making contact to other wires, it would be better.
Do note that all these builds can be used on any rebuildable atomizer and is rated roughly around 1.2-1.4 ohms. These builds can be used on any unit; be it mech, semi mech, variable voltage or even on the eGo. If you prefer more vapor, reduce wire loops or use a thicker wire material. If you want better juice retention, add more folds of wick.
Using a dual coil setup doesn't ensure more vapor production but it does ensure more stress on the battery, greater throat hit, warmer vapor, more juice consumption, and more frustrations if building it without experience. They key to a good dual coil setup is making sure that both coils glow at the same time when you dry-fire it. Not making them glow at the same time would render the build inefficient, thus wasting only ejuice on the setup instead of achieving the desired output.
With these basic setups in mind, you can tweak and experiment on them to fit your preference. Don't get disheartened when you don't get the build properly the first time. It's way better to spend on wicks and wires rather than medical bills because of lung cancer.
Everything takes practice and in time, you'll get the hang of building quickly and flawlessly.
Cheers and keep on vaping! :)
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